About Pure Flax Linen

The beautiful blue flowers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum, whose fibres are used to make linen cloth

From Ancient Times

Linen is one of the oldest textiles known, its use dating back to Neolithic times. It was the ancient Egyptians, however, who developed linen into the "cloth of Kings". The finest was known as “woven air” - reportedly so delicate that a robe of it could be drawn through a finger ring!

Flax linen was equally important in death: bandages of linen being impregnated with aromatic plant extracts and used to enwrap the embalmed bodies of nobles, the priesthood and sacred animals. The British Museum in London houses pieces of mummy-linen 6,000 years old. When samples were examined under a microscope at the Linen Industry Research Institute, Belfast, they were found to be as structurally perfect as linen made today. Aside from the remarkable skills of ancient Egyptian weavers, this is testimony to the incredible durability of flax linen. Any other cloth would have crumbled to dust many centuries ago.

Nowadays, Egypt is better known for its high quality cotton. According to historians, however, the species of cotton found growing naturally in Egypt was not exploited until the Coptic (Christian) era. Even then, flax linen continued to reign supreme until the 19th Century when cotton indigenous to South America was introduced to Egyptian cotton growers, for it was deemed more suited to mechanised mass production.

The cotton industry in Britain and Ireland at that time, with its ability to produce low cost goods, resulted in many closures within the Irish linen industry. The introduction of synthetic fabrics in the early 20th century, together with rising costs, pushed the Irish linen industry to the brink.

Nevertheless, Irish linen was not completely supplanted; its unique qualities of comfort, drape and distinctive appearance ensured its future as a niche product in the luxury market.

Irish linen continues to be woven today, in the same traditional areas of Northern Ireland, and by descendants of those who have worked in the linen industry, having passed down skills that have been learned over hundreds of years.

The future for Irish linen is decidedly bright, for we're currently enjoying a revival of interest in pure flax linen in general, the fabric being as appropriate today as it was in the past. As demand continues to grow for quality natural textiles with a modest environmental footprint, and free from sweatshop labour, undoubtedly discerning buyers will ensure that Irish linen is here to stay!

Environmentally Preferable

Certified organic textiles aside, the production of linen from flax fibre is the most ecologically sound process of all for textile manufacture.

After harvesting the crop, which is pulled up by hand to prevent the stems from breaking, the plant material is laid out to ret in fields - a process whereby the bark of the plant is exposed to the elements and rots naturally so that the fibres loosen from the stem. The fibres are then combed, spun, woven and finished according to the way in which the linen is to be used.

Natural unbleached linen varies in colour from shades of ivory to light greyish brown, in accordance with variable biological changes occuring during the retting process. To achieve pure white linen, the fabric is bleached using hydrogen peroxide as this is much safer for the environment than chlorine bleach.

Whereas mass produced cotton demands high levels of agrochemical treatment, flax has a short growing season and requires the bare minimum of fertilisers and pesticides. Additionally, linen manufacture requires five to twenty times less water and energy than production of cotton and synthetic fabrics.

Although only the very best fibres are used by the Irish Linen industry, every part of the flax plant has a purpose and nothing is wasted. Flax seed (linseed) is used for the production of linseed/flax oil and cattlefeed. Flax straw is used in everything from linoleum floor coverings to soap and paper (British bank notes are made from linen fibre); whilst flax bark is processed into chipboard. Indeed, few products are so efficiently used as flax.

Linseeds are highly nutritious and tasty when added to homemade biscuits, breads and other baked goods. However, the type of flax grown solely for commercial seed production (not for the production of linen cloth) has been bred over centuries to be shorter in order to support the weight of ripening seedheads. Seed flax also requires warmer climates for the seeds to ripen - India, Argentinia, the USA and Canada being the major linseed producers.

Socially Responsible

A major consideration is that flax grown for Irish linen production is cultivated, spun and woven entirely within the European Union, thus working conditions wages and profits are fair for everyone down the line.

The Exclusivity of Linen

In recent times, the word 'linen' has become a generic term for all manner of sheets, table coverings and towels - even those items made from cheap polycotton. Yet no other textile quite compares with the special qualities of pure flax linen.

Linen is exclusive for several main reasons: it's produced on a much smaller scale than cotton; the various stages of its manufacture are more labour intensive; and flax is more difficult to weave due to its lack of elasticity. Therefore, linen is significantly more costly to produce than cotton - although its benefits are unmatched.

Linen is four times more durable than cotton, with a high resistence to tearing and stretching. At the same time, linen is exceptionally absorbent and does not 'lint'. When using a linen cloth for drying dishes or drinks glasses, for example, there will be no streaks or bits of fabric left behind.

When used for clothing or bedding, pure linen allows the skin to breath, absorbing up to 20 percent of its own weight in moisture, whilst still feeling dry to the touch. This is because linen rapidly releases absorbed moisture into the air. Linen also has anti-static properties - it doesn't pick up dust - making it an excellent choice of fabric for people with sensitive skin or allergies.

With the minimum of proper care, the natural beauty of linen is easily maintained. Due to its robustness it can withstand repeated launderings over a life-time. Indeed the more often it's washed, the softer and more luminous it becomes. For this reason, pure linen home textiles tend to become family heirlooms.

What Defines Irish Linen?

Irish linen fabric is defined as that which is woven in Ireland from 100% linen yarns - which, nowadays, are are imported from Northern France, The Netherlands and Belgium. For these countries have the most favourable climatic conditions for the production of highest quality flax fibre suitable for making fine linens. The quality of Irish linen is in the weaving - Irish weavers being renowned throughout the world for their exceptional skills, handed down through generations.

It's important to add that household textile items and garments can be labelled 'Irish linen', even though they may have been made-up in another country. This is because the term 'Irish linen' does not refer to the cutting and sewing, rather it refers to where the fabric itself was woven.

A Word About Thread Count

The thread count for pure linen cannot be compared with that of cotton. By nature, linen has a lower thread count because the threads are heavier and more loosely woven.

As a matter of interest, our superior quality Irish linen sheets, pillowcases and duvet covers have a thread count of 112 threads per square inch - and yet, the fabric is four times more durable than best quality cotton.

Caring for Pure Linen

Pure linen, unlike most other textiles, increases in strength when wet - and thus, launders extremely well. Indeed, it's a joy to wash, for it always bounces back anew!

Although authentic pure Irish linen is an expensive choice (less so if you purchase it from Lily Rose & Wylde), it's a wise investment. For it remains durable and beautiful throughout a life-time of continuous domestic use. And, considering the demand for antique linen, it's value is likely to increase with age.

Unlike synthetic fibres, Irish linen can be washed at high temperatures (95 degrees C.) if you feel this is necessary. More often than not, it will wash beautifully at lower temperatures (50-60 degrees C.) Use an eco-friendly washing powder or liquid suitable for cotton and linen. Please avoid chlorine bleaches and whitening agents, however, as these will weaken the flax fibres if used continuously.

To remove stubborn stains, the occasional use of a biodegradable chlorine-free bleach such as Oxiclean or Ecover Laundry Bleach should be effective. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Of course, linen creases easily - yet it remains elegant, the creases being part of its charm! After washing the linen article, hang until slightly damp, then iron at a medium to high setting for a beautiful result.

We recommend that your linen should not be tumble-dried, as this tends to scrunch the linen fibres, making the fabric impossible to iron. If, however, you feel you must put your linen in the tumble dryer, it's essential to use a low temperature and ensure that you remove the linen before it's completely dry. You can only iron linen successfully when it's slightly damp.

However, you don't have to iron your linen if you are too busy. You may only wish to do so for the benefit of guests staying in your home. At other times, if your linen is pegged out to dry in the fresh air, fully opened out, the creases will be minimal.

Finally, as every linen lover will confirm, one of life's simple pleasures is drifting into sleep whilst breathing the elusive scent of freshly laundered air-dried linen...lulling the senses, nurturing the skin...